As a foreigner in
the Philippines, I experienced how much taste for food is based on
culture. Reviewing food here means reviewing my palate as well.
French food is told sophiscated. I would rather welcome you in my
narrow minded culinary world !
When Chef Edward
Bugia came to Ateneo on the17th of January to judge
students' innovative sandwiches, he was quite surprised nobody used
mayo. My team mates straight looked at me. That's right I vetoed it.
« I know it will look French and pretentious. But please guys
let's not use mayo it will be sweet or at least I'll cook a homemade
one ».
Many of my fellow
country mate living here became « food pretentious » as
well. We are frightened in front of any jelly, disgusted by the most
common peanut butter and we are moved to pity for poor sweet bread.
We did not grew up eating this kind of food. Our obsessive worry in
front of a menu turned out to be sweetness present in so many salty
eats.
My sweet/salty car accident |
Mantra of Sir
Olivares sandwich contest was to be original. So on, originality
efforts focused on sweet/salty compositions. When I tasted the Red
Light District, burgers ingredients inside a Krispy Kreme doughnut, I
couldn't help saying, « It's not good when it's too sweet, »
to my sandwich's creator classmate. It was rude. It was also rude for
my taste buds. Homemade beef patties were made from thick and tender
meat. I crunched inside with pleasure. But this meat and sweet cake
pastry combination was equivalent to a violent car accident for my
palate. Collision of two tastes not expected to ever meet.
Lighter sweet and salty mixings |
The Fili(pino)
Cheesesteak and the Breakfast Club offered a lighter sweet/salty
mixing. Longganisa, pan de sal with cheese for the first one and
bacon, avocado and cheese for the other, those mixing are defenitely
not included in French taste. Eating them, I felt the attachment I
got to this food since I'm in this country. Still in France, I would
have said, « Bread is sweet ! Meet is sweet ! It
can't work ! » And now I do know I'll certainly miss pan
de sal back in my country. I enjoyed as well the avocado creating a
new spread with cheese.
Big sporty guys need meat |
Peanut butter,
ketchup, mustard and different meats between two sandwich loaf slices
for the Buff Dude creation brought back my strict policy about sweet
and salty segregation. Taste of each food was quite lost. But I do
understand that's kind of sandwich big guys getting out of their
sport training would crave for.
Rereading my
review, I'm feeling French cuisine appears more conservative than
sophisticated. What's salty must remains in the main meal while
sweetness stays on the dessert list. Sweet/salty mixings are rare in
France but when there are it's a matter of proportions. Sweetness is
displayed by tiny touches to emphasize salty flavours. We like a
honey drop on our goat chesse or few figs on foie gras.
The Nacocoloco sandwich reminded me those mixings. Contrary to Chef Edward's opinion, I
definitely think coco jam blends with German roast beef. I enjoyed
this soft taste meat which got emphasized by light mixing with this
extremly sweet spread.
Keep it simple but keep it straight as well |
He explained to
the students sandwich making rule is K.I.S.S. Not kissing the bread
but Keep it Simple, Stupid. And he definitely knows what's talking
about. Adviser for cooking TV shows, creator of many restaurants in
Quezon city, Chef Edward is a fusion food master. Pino, his
restaurant near Manginhawa street arranges together oriental spices,
Pinoy meals and European inspirations.
It gives a clue
about his best sandwich choice. During Steaklibrary's brainstorming
session, I insisted to avoid sweet sauce or meat. While we were
preparing the Fancylog sandwich in front of the audience, Jiggy spoke
with a weird well imitated French accent to present our multi
cultural creation. We displayed on the bread a pesto tapenade made
from sun dried tomatoes, olives and peanuts. The spread was covered
by some Tocino and Beef Tapa meat cubes.
Contrary to our
expectations, meat was sweet. And it did create this soft sweet and
salty mixed that is certainly our sandwich key success. This last
minute recipe change taught me I should avoid to be gastro
fascist.
I often say
everything labelled as « grown up stuffs » is disgusting
at first taste. Coffee, cigarettes and alcohol. But people do enjoy
it afterwards.
According to my
personal proverb, everything is a matter of habit. I started enjoying
the soft sweet taste of some Filipino eats. But with my 20 years
French food education, it means I should eat tons of peanut butter
before to like it. YUCK …. or yum according to different people tastes.
And those
culturally subjective biases are certainly one of the most important
limit for food criticism.
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